iPhone screens are model-specific, and several recent generations look almost identical from the front — the safest way to order the right one is to confirm your exact model before you buy, not after. Getting this wrong doesn't just waste money; on iPhone specifically, the wrong screen simply won't fit or connect, since Apple pairs internal components tightly by model. Here's how to confirm your model in under a minute, and what to do if the usual method isn't available.
Method 1: Settings menu (most reliable)
- Open Settings
- Tap General, then About
- The Model Name field shows your exact model (e.g. "iPhone 16 Pro"). Tap Model Number for the precise regulatory model code if you want to double-check against a specific listing.
Method 2: physical check
If the phone won't power on, the model number is printed in small text on the back of the phone (older models) or can be found on the original box/receipt. Comparing physical size can also help distinguish standard vs Plus vs Pro Max, but Pro and standard models of the same size (e.g. iPhone 16 vs 16 Pro) look near-identical and are not reliably told apart by eye — use the box or a case-fit check instead.
Why this matters more on iPhone than on some other brands
Direct answer: Apple pairs the screen, TrueDepth camera module (for Face ID) and logic board more tightly than many Android manufacturers, which means an incorrect screen on an iPhone is more likely to simply fail to connect or function correctly, rather than fit loosely but work. This is a stricter failure mode than the "fits but isn't ideal" mismatch you sometimes see on other brands — on iPhone, the wrong part is very unlikely to work at all, which makes getting the model right before ordering more important here than almost anywhere else in phone repair.
Common mix-ups
| Mix-up | Why it happens | How to avoid it |
|---|---|---|
| Standard vs Pro (e.g. 16 vs 16 Pro) | Similar size, easy to confuse in photos or by memory | Check Settings > General > About — never assume from size alone |
| Standard vs Plus vs Pro Max | Different screen sizes, but hard to judge precisely without measuring | Use Settings, or measure against official dimensions if the phone won't power on |
| Consecutive generations (e.g. 15 vs 16 of the same variant) | Near-identical external design year to year | Check Settings, or the model number on the box/receipt |
| LCD vs OLED variant of the same model | Not visible from the outside at all — both look the same until fitted | This is a choice you make when ordering, not something to identify on the phone — see our LCD vs OLED guide |
If the physical label is worn or illegible
On older phones where the rear regulatory text has worn away, or if you no longer have the box or receipt, a few fallback options remain: check Apple's official support site using the phone's serial number if you can find it elsewhere (a previous backup, an old invoice, or your Apple ID purchase history), or take the phone to any repair shop for a free model check — most can confirm the exact model in seconds using diagnostic tools without needing to power the phone on fully. It's worth doing this rather than guessing, given how strictly Apple pairs components by model.
What to do if you're still not certain
If you've tried the above and remain unsure, it's better to pause and verify than to order and risk a part that won't fit. Contact us with whatever information you do have — approximate purchase date, carrier, colour, any partial model number — and we can help narrow it down before you commit to a purchase.
Checking your Apple ID purchase history for certainty
If you're signed into the same Apple ID the phone was originally set up with, Apple's account purchase and device history can often confirm the exact model, even from another device or a computer, without needing physical access to the phone in question at all. This is particularly useful if the phone is fully dead and the box has long since been discarded — visit appleid.apple.com, sign in, and check the devices associated with your account. This method works from any device with internet access, making it one of the more reliable fallbacks when the phone itself can't confirm anything.
Why guessing based on carrier or purchase date isn't reliable
It's tempting to reason "I bought this in late 2024, so it must be the 16," but this kind of inference is riskier than it sounds — gift purchases, hand-me-downs, refurbished units bought later, and simple memory of dates being slightly off all introduce room for error, and on iPhone specifically, that error means a part that won't work rather than one that fits imperfectly. The few minutes spent confirming via Settings, the box, or Apple ID purchase history are worth it precisely because the cost of being wrong is a non-functional replacement attempt, not just a slightly-off cosmetic match.
Using the model number to double-check a specific listing
Beyond just confirming the model name, the precise regulatory model number (shown under Settings > General > About > Model Number, or printed on the box as something like "A3287") can be genuinely useful when a listing description is ambiguous or when a phone has a regional variant that behaves slightly differently from the standard version. Apple assigns distinct model numbers to region and carrier variants of the same-named phone in some cases, and while this rarely affects screen compatibility specifically, cross-checking the model number against a product listing's specification is a useful extra layer of certainty if you want to be completely sure before ordering, particularly for a higher-cost original-specification part.
A practical checklist before you order
- Confirmed model name via Settings > General > About, or the box/receipt if the phone won't power on
- Noted the model number for cross-checking against the listing, if relevant
- Decided on LCD or OLED where both are offered, based on your budget and usage — see our comparison guide
- Confirmed the fault is genuinely the screen, not the battery or motherboard — see our diagnostic guide
Working through this short checklist before ordering takes a few minutes and removes almost all of the risk of receiving a part that doesn't fit or doesn't match what you actually needed.
Once you know your model
Check current stock and pricing:
- iPhone 16 family guide — pricing and options for iPhone 16, 16 Plus and 16 Pro
- Full cost comparison — every model we currently stock
- LCD vs OLED comparison — once you've confirmed your model, decide on panel type
Delivery & returns
- Same working-day dispatch on orders placed before 4:00pm, Monday to Friday.
- 30-day returns if an item arrives faulty.
- UK-based customer service, 10:00am to 6:00pm.
Frequently asked questions
My iPhone won't turn on — how do I check the model?
Check the original box or receipt, or look for small regulatory text on the back of the phone on some models. A repair shop can also confirm it using diagnostic tools, or check your Apple ID purchase history online.
Are iPhone 16 and iPhone 16 Pro screens interchangeable?
No — despite similar sizing, they use different screen technology and are not interchangeable parts.
What if I order the wrong screen by mistake?
Contact us before fitting the part — faulty items are covered by our 30-day returns policy; for an incorrect order, reach out and we'll help sort it out.
Why is getting the model right more critical on iPhone than some Android phones?
Apple pairs the screen, Face ID module and logic board more tightly, so an incorrect screen is more likely to simply fail to work rather than fit loosely — there's less margin for a near-enough match.
Can I identify LCD vs OLED from looking at my current screen?
No — this isn't something to identify visually on the phone; it's a choice you make when ordering the replacement part, based on your model and budget.
Is there a way to check my model without powering on the phone at all?
Yes — the original box, receipt, or Apple ID purchase history can confirm it without needing the phone to switch on.
Can I check my model from a different device using my Apple ID?
Yes — sign into appleid.apple.com from any device and check your associated devices, which can confirm the exact model without needing physical access to the phone.
Is it safe to guess my model based on when I bought the phone?
Not reliably — gift purchases, hand-me-downs, and refurbished units bought later can all make purchase-date guessing wrong, and on iPhone, an incorrect guess means a part that won't work at all.
What's the model number and when do I need it, beyond the model name?
It's the precise regulatory code (e.g. "A3287") shown under Model Number in Settings. Useful for cross-checking against an ambiguous listing or a regional variant, though it rarely affects screen compatibility specifically.
What should I check before ordering, beyond just the model name?
Confirm the model name and number, decide LCD or OLED where both exist, and confirm the fault is genuinely the screen — a short checklist that removes most of the risk of a mismatched order.